Out and About with Tom and Huck - Rambling Around with the Irwins         by Alice Irwin

July 4th Journey Part 2 - Hikes, Bikes, and Gas Lights                 Return to Tom & Huck Page

July 26, 2001 Edition of the Sun and Record

Get out your PA Gazeteer! Pages 35 and 49.

 We discovered that most of Northern Pennsylvania’s lakes are reservoirs formed by dams on streams and rivers that had been the source of catastrophic flooding in the 1800’s and 1900’s.  Our first stop was at the Hammond and Tioga Lakes Connecting Channel Overlook, just off route 287.  It afforded a stunning view of the dams and the surrounding countryside. These lakes offer two recreation areas, Ives Run and Lambs Creek and feature trails, camping, boat launches, and thankfully, wonderfully clean restrooms.  We swooped down through the valley on route 287, following Crooked Creek.  The hillsides were a sea of blossoming Crown Vetch and wild flowers, and the view of the distant mountains gave me goose bumps.  This was going to be a real good trip.  

About 20 miles later we arrived in Wellsboro; what a truly pleasant surprise.  It’s an absolute delight! The population of Wellsboro is about 3400, with another 10,000 people living within a 10-mile radius.   After a recon trip through town looking for a place to stay, we decided on the Terrace Motel, about a 5-minute walk to the center of town.  Wellsboro was founded in 1806; downtown streets are wide and lined with majestic Maples and Elms.    The proud historic homes and public buildings have been lovingly restored, each with meticulous lawns and gardens.    Main Street is a wide boulevard divided by a groomed grass mall with gas lights (yes…real gas lights!) on posts that were adorned with red, white, and blue banners honoring July 4^th..  The best part is that there are no mega-malls in the area: the downtown business district is alive and well and thriving.  Real stores line the streets: outdoor equipment, furniture, shoe, book, and hardware stores, gift shops, restaurants and taverns, and a high-end department store complete with café.  It’s a true small-town downtown, the way they used to be.   And clean…not a piece of litter anywhere to be seen.  There was even a movie theatre,  built in 1921 and bustling with business every night.  We picked up a brochure on a walking tour of downtown, and planned that for our morning walk on Tuesday.

We always find the local Chamber of Commerce and load up on literature on new areas that we visit; this one provided information overload!  I found an advertisement in one of the publications for Pine Creek Outfitters (www.pinecrk.com), about 8 miles east of town on route 6 in Ansonia.  It was perfect:   “Mountain Bike Rentals – explore the Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania”.  We jumped in the truck and decided to see what the story was.  The most pleasant man greeted us; I believe he owned the shop and was absolutely dedicated to making a visitor’s experience the best. They provide bike, canoe and kayak rentals, shuttle service, and guided rafting trips (Pine Creek has Class III/IV white water in the spring..not me, not ever!).  They also sell outdoor equipment, books, and supplies.  He spotted our canoe on the truck and inquired if we’d like to take a trip down Upper Pine Creek in the morning; recent rains afforded enough water to make the trip possible this time of year.   After talking with him about the bike path along the floor of the PA Grand Canyon’s gorge, we decided that was the ticket for Monday’s adventure.

Heading back to Wellsboro, we stopped at the Twin Pines Tavern; what a hoot.  Sunday afternoon and it was full of some of the friendliest local folks that we’ve ever met.  Everyone was giving “Mini-Bike Mike” a lot of grief for his new acquisition.  We had a frosty Yeungling Lager (pronounced “ying-ling” - oldest working brewery in the US – local to PA!) and returned to town to check out dinner possibilities. 

Strolling through downtown, the menu posted at the “Timeless Destination” Restaurant caught our eye and it was obvious that we’d have to dine here at least a couple of evenings.   Another great find.  Elegantly-linened tables were set in a room amidst a wonderfully eclectic collection of antiques covering the walls and suspended from the ceiling:  bags of golf clubs, fishing creels, folding fabric shopping baskets, a metal “Cooks Variety Store” sign , a Mad River Canoe, antique croquet sets, brass fire extinguishers, lawn chairs, bouys.  A feast for antique-lovers.  Already facing too many choices on the regular menu, our server, Christie, announced the special: Marlin with Blue Crab and Apricot Sauce.  Oh my. We mulled over the selections with our salads of Romaine, Green Pepper, and Red Cabbage, served with Red Wine Vinaigrette and great chunks of freshly ground black pepper.  Out-of-the-oven baked bread was served with a dish of warm herbed olive oil for dipping.   Forget the diet!

I selected the Seafood Misto… sautéed Grouper and Crab-Stuffed Shrimp with a wine and lemon sauce.  Ethan chose the Frutti Del Mare…Mussels, Clams, Calamari, Shrimp in marinara sauce over linguine.   Outstanding.  And, what else can you ask for but to dine to the music of Steeley Dan, The Allman Brothers, and the Doors.   Needless to say, we had dinner there the next night.

Monday morning Pine Creek Outfitters provided us with bicycles suitable for the trail through the Canyon.  We let them know that we hadn’t been on bikes for nearly 15 years.  No problem.  Their van delivered us to the trailhead at Ansonia Station; the “trail” was an abandoned railroad bed that the State has graveled and packed.  There was also a one-lane dirt path designated for equestrian use.  The morning was cool and the aroma of the woods and sweetly fragrant pines brought back memories of my childhood adventures in the Adirondacks.   It was 10:00 a.m. and we requested that the outfitters pick us up at Rattlesnake Rocks, the south terminus of the Pine Creek Rail trail19 miles away, at 2:00.  Coasting along Pine Creek we were all by ourselves; the only sounds were the birds and the happy gurgling of the creek as it skipped over the rocks in its path.  We had entered another world…the mountains rose steeply on both sides of our narrow valley and for the moment there were no people, no noise, no traffic, no decisions; just us and the creek and the canyon, and peace.

Next time…walking tours, wineries, and PA’s State Parks!