Full Circle - Returning to the Adirondacks, Part 2

NYS Gazetteer Pages 79 & 87

In the heart of the Adirondacks...Karl's Forever Wild B&B is a treasure, just outside of Indian Lake, NY. at the edge of the Moose River Plains.  Exquisitely private, comfortable, and hospitable. The photo of us with our "rig" is in the parking lot at Wakely Mtn, at the edge of the Moose River Plains.  We had a fine picnic! Below..the B&B borders on the Cedar River.  You'll never find anything more special than this.

                   After my nearly heart-stopping experience on the suspension bridge over the roaring West Branch of the Sacandaga River (Gazetteer page 79, just southwest of Wells) we regrouped and determined that we had indeed taken the wrong path. No foolin. Taking the right-hand fork at the sign-in set us on our way toward our destination of West River Falls.  Our little brochure from the tourism office in Speculator describes the hike as a  moderate trek: “2 ½ miles.  Follow trail north.  Within ½ mile take first unmarked left trail.  Cross Hamilton Lake Stream on little bridge, continue on foot path past flow area to falls which are 100 feet high.  Flat until last ½ mile.”  Piece of cake.  It was a glorious day for a hike - cool and sunny.  After about an hour we came to an informal camping area nestled into a horseshoe in Hamilton Lake Stream.  There was no little bridge, and the supposedly tame stream was as wide as the river, swollen from the rain and was not going to be crossed easily that day.  Mid-summer, maybe, but getting soaked up to the waist in October didn’t interest us.  We were miles back into the mountains, and the only sounds were the rumbling stream, gleeful birds grateful for the break in the weather, and the friendly POP! of our cans of Blue as we sat down to enjoy the peace before heading back.  The falls would have to wait for another time.  We stopped for a picnic along West River Road on our way down the mountain, once again marveling at the spectacular fall foliage and bluer-than-blue skies that you’ll only find in the mountains. 

After purchasing another book in the “Discover the Adirondacks” series later that day at Charlie John’s store (www.charliejohns.com), we had quite a revelation.  The hike we set out on was described as “A long and difficult walk.  In early spring when the river is at its wildest (...or after substantial rains...) the trip to the falls is almost impossible.  From Cold Brook west, the valley narrows so that in places steep cliffs rise directly from the shore...the path clings to the steep shore then almost disappears.  You can climb, with some difficulty, around the boulders to reach the falls...you can easily spend 6 hours on this hike.”  You get the idea.  So much for the little tourism brochure’s description.  We do plan to return and complete the hike in the summer, when hiking the riverbed would be enjoyable, and also after discussing the trek with locals.  

Our trip continued north on Route 30 to Indian Lake, with spectacular views greeting us around every curve.  I remember the “old road” to Indian Lake when I was a child - a narrow, snaking 25 mile path that seemed to take all day to navigate. Top-heavy logging trucks would careen toward our family’s Rambler station wagon at horrifying speeds.   The entire family was white-knuckled.  Now Route 30 is a smooth, sweeping boulevard with wide shoulders to facilitate pulling over for photos.  It’s certainly easier to drive, but I can’t say that I like it better...

Our sunny skies were gone and a drop in temperature provided the excitement of snow squalls.  The tops of Snowy, Squaw, and Panther mountains were obscured by mini-blizzards. We decided to take a spin through Lewey Lake Campground at the southern end of Indian Lake and check out boat launch facilities for future use.  It was also time to check out restroom facilities.  A lot of the New York DEC campgrounds are open well into the fall, and they typically have very nice facilities.   The attendant at the gate was more than happy to let us take a drive through.  It’s a beautiful campground, with most sites overlooking the water, a nice sandy beach, and an excellent launch.  The solitude of fall and winter camping has to be wonderful, but unheated restrooms at that time of year are quite an experience, and the faucets spilled out some of the coldest water I’ve ever felt. Nonetheless, we were grateful to the DEC. At least some of our tax dollars are being put to good use.

Speaking of restrooms, we have discovered a phenomenon in the Adirondacks that’s sorely lacking in most communities - clean, year ‘round public restrooms.  Every little town has them.  In Wells, they just completed building new ones adjoining the ambulance base; Indian Lake worked to secure a grant from the state and just built new, heated ones in a brand-new park.  Everywhere you go they cater to tourists and locals in need; and we know where each and every one is...

As the rain and snow mix continued, it was obvious we wouldn’t be canoeing Lake Abanakee and Lake Adirondack that day.  We did take a ride around these splendid little bodies of water that are tucked away just outside of the village of Indian Lake. We followed Chain Lakes Road north from Route 28 along the shore of Lake Abanakee; it turns into Cooley Club Road paralleling the Indian River, which shortly joins up with the Hudson River.  Stopping at the Moose Deli, we secured one of the best sub sandwiches I’ve ever had piled high with freshly roasted turkey and all kinds of crisp greens crowned by a sumptuous dressing,  along with home made potato salad for our lunch.  The tiny deli is open all year and has a menu so big we could have spent the day reading it.  Just outside of town we turned on Cedar River Road, the southeast entrance to the Moose River Plains: a 50,000 acre wilderness area that offers hiking, camping, hunting, and fishing and mostly just a chance to be alone in the middle of nowhere.  A 13 mile drive, seven of which are definitely unimproved dirt, landed us at the Cedar River Flow where we found the winds too high for an enjoyable boating experience on this remarkable body of water created by Wakely Dam, but it was another perfect day for a hike.  Sun sparkled through maples decked out in shimmering crimson, and drifts of tiny wild white strawflowers nodded their heads in the breeze.  We chose to have our Moose Deli picnic at the Wakely Mountain trailhead - another one that’s on our list of “have to hikes.”  It’s a little more than a 3 mile hike, but purportedly steep.  At the 3700+ foot summit there’s one of the tallest fire towers in the Adirondacks, around 90 feet.  Sadly, most of the historic fire towers in the Adirondacks have been abandoned due to lack of funding or the politics of special interest groups and have fallen into disrepair and continue to be shut down. 

Following our fine picnic fare, we picked our way back down the Cedar River road to our evening’s destination:  “Forever Wild: Karl’s Bed and Breakfast.”  It’s a magnificent natural wood sided home in the middle of the deepest woods, with the Cedar River dancing through the property. The owner greeted us and showed us to our “room” - an apartment on the entire ground floor.  Warm wood paneling, a wood burning stove, kitchen, comfy living room - all brand new.  Karl built the home himself; it was a hunting cabin that became a dream come true a few years ago.   Unfortunately, he’s struggling with the aftermath of back surgery that was more destructive than effective.  Undaunted, he explained that he just has to move a little more slowly but still is able to hunt and enjoy life in the wilderness.  It’s one of the nicest, most comfortable and hospitable places we’ve ever stayed and the price can’t be beat.  You can find Karl and Bev Bohringer at 518-648-5783.  Their B&B a treasure and is usually booked up.  We took a leisurely seven mile drive back into Indian Lake to the Tops store and secured some delicious microwave fare and salad greens to take back to the B&B for our dinner later that night.  Toasty warm and curled up in comfy chairs with good books, it was a perfect evening in the mountains.  We look forward to returning to this special haven in the Moose River Plains.  We know it will take a special place in your heart too. 

Next time...an Adirondack fall foliage train ride and more!  Or maybe our trip to Panama Rocks and Chautauqua...who knows?